Cameras

I use mainly Hasselblad cameras, most of the pictures on this site were taken with my 500cm camera which uses 120 roll-film (the next size up to 35mm). In February 2007 I bought a new(ish) 501cm (see pics below) and the older 500 is now retired.

Standard and Telephoto Lenses

The standard (80mm lens) is rarely used, my favourite telephoto is the 160mm which is equivalent to a 100mm lens on 35mm film. Over this length, the lenses start to get really big and heavy. I have a 250mm C series lens but this is really too big to carry any distance with the rest of the kit.

Hasselbad 501cm fitted with 80mm (standard lens). 160mm CB lens on the left.

Wide Angle Lenses

I use wide angle lenses quite a lot to get some foreground or sky into the picture, creating a feeling of depth. I use the 50mm lens mainly, which is equivalent to a 28mm on 35mm film.

In Augus 2007 I bought a SWC/M camera which has a fixed 38mm lens which is great for architectural pictures. I look foward to posting some images with this great camera.

Hasselbad 50mm CF lens (used with the 501CM above). On its right is the SWCM camera with viewfinder and fixed 38mm lens..

Hasselbad XPAN with 45mm lens (left). Nikon FM2 with 50mm lens (Right).

Panoramic and Lightweight Camera

The cameras shown above are nearly always used on a tripod, in a controlled, slow way. Sometimes I need to carry a lighter camera for long-distance walks, fell-walking etc. In these cases I will take either the Hasselblad XPAN or Nikon FM2.

The Hasselblad XPAn is a panoramic camera with uses 35mm film (exposing very wide strips each frame). I have found the very high contrast lenses (45mm and 90mm) very effective for monochrome, but not so good for colour. Hence this is my favourite combination when climbing hills in the Lake District.

Materals and Printing

Colour

I use Fuji transparency film (slide film) for nearly all my colour pictures. 90% of the time I use Fuji Velvia 50, but since Fuji have messed around with this product over the last year or so, I have needed to experiment with Fuji Provia 100, Velvia 100 and now I’m back to plain old Velvia 50 (back where I started). The reason why I use transparency film is because I have historically chosen not to print my own colour work and using transparency film allows me to make any image adjustments “in camera” and ask the printer to print all the images “straight” from the film ie. with no further adjustments or manipulation. If I shot with colour negative then the printer always needs to make judgements associated with colour and contrast which is outside my control.

Most colour prints are made by Owen Boyd, I have previously used BPD Photech and Transpacolour but had quality problems with both. Owen does a great job and prints exclusively on Ilford materials (Ilfochrome Classic).

Whilst I was searching for a new printer a couple of years ago, I experimented with using high-end scans and then getting light-jet prints done. The prints done by Metro (Clerkenwell in London) are excellent but expensive. The prints don’t have the same vibrancy as Ilfochrome Classic but for very large prints over 12x16” the computer seems to help out a little and the prints have a greater sharpness.

Monochrome

As of today (Jan 2008) I’m shooting more black and white than ever and using mainly Ilford XP2 film and also experimenting with Ilford’s Infra-red film (SFX200). I get the films developed locally and print in my own darkroom. I use mainly Ilford Multigrade RC Glossy paper. I purchase all my film and paper from Morco, whilst it’s cheaper to buy off-shore, they have offered excellent service and have continued to support traditional materials.

Technique Questions

 Do you have to wait a long time whilst taking the photographs?

None of them are ever that quick! Nearly every photograph is highly planned so that I maximise the probability of the light and weather being in my favour. Before travelling to a location I will often calculate the viewpoint, time of day, sun position and if necessary tide level beforehand. For my picture of Chalkwell Pier I wanted the sunset to be in a particular position which only happens at a certain time of year, so I put this in my diary and visited the location every weekend for the appropriate month.

Once positioned I rarely have to wait in one spot for longer than an hour.

Once the conditions are right, things can often progress very quickly. Sunlight in windy or changeable weather conditions can change drastically in a matter of seconds. The light in at Dukes Pass for example only lasted for a matter of seconds and to be ready, I needed to stand in the rain for a while.

What do you think of digital photography?

Ive just started to use a digital camera for landscape photography, it will be interesting to see how this works out. At the moment i’m impressed by the dynamic range (ability to handle high contrast) from the camera. The prints look “different” as they emerge from my new Epson 2880 printer. The Nikon uses the same lenses as my old FM2 above.

What’s your favourite piece of equipment?

My favourite accessory is a shower cap (the kind they provide at hotels), particularly useful in Scotland and the Lakes. The camera wears this, not me.

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